Prepping in the kitchen.
It’s a daunting task to be the first person to taste Luke Dale Roberts food at his new venture, The Test Kitchen, and then to write a review.
But here goes; Semi cured Franschhoek trout fillet, liquorice braised beetroot, fennel, lime pure and fromage blanc. Simple, earthy, exquisite.
Cold beetroot, mousse green apple, lime zest, puff pastry chips. The combinations are a delight and really work.
I love the way the menu mentions the ingredients, instead of single titles that don’t really explain what you will end up eating.
What other delights is Luke going to be dishing up?
Slow cooked celery heart in bonito crumbs, mussels, pickled tongue and parsley.
Foe gras, Jerusalem artichoke and lemon chicken tree with rosemary streusel and leaves, or
sake steamed scallop, langoustine, cauliflower stalks, yuzu, limoncello and chive cream.
Test Kitchen interior.
There are 19 dishes on the kitchen bar menu.
Prices start at R40 per portion.
In the evening time there is a five course meal for R345 and a 7 course tasting menu at R450.
Wooden counters surround the very open plan kitchen. Guests can sit up and be so close and be part of the action. You can even chat to the chefs and order from them.
There is only 25 or so seating places.30 at a stretch.
The interior design is very organic and earthy. Wooden chairs are covered in brown leather with red stitching and tables are bronze coloured burnished metal.
Felt lampshades dangle from the old wooden rafters. A huge old metal door hangs on one of the brick walls. What’s on the other side is a secret.
Luke.
Floor to ceiling shelving with wines bottles and glass food jars occupy one whole wall.
The food is served on plates which Luke has designed himself; brown and dark in colour, they’re not the usual white, but for Luke’s food they work.
The most exciting cooking in Cape Town?
You better believe it.
Get yourself down to The Test Kitchen, and prepare to be mesmerised in an understated, earthy way.
A unique food experience.
The Test Kitchen by Luke Dale RobertsThe Biscuit Mill
Woodstock.
www.thetestkitchen.co.za
Jars.
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You lucky girl!! I have had the most awesome experience at La Colombe, made my version of his Beetroot tarts, but I know he is so incredibly talented!!!
http://www.my-easy-cooking.com/2010/11/my-la-colombe-inspired-beetroot-tarts.html
Hi Clare, Thank you so much for the wonderful review. I love the detailed descriptions of the food and decor and the gorgeous photographs. Having eaten quite a lot of Luke’s amazing food over the years, it’s so lovely to have the scoop on his latest, exciting adventure. I can’t wait to go there and try it myself! Best wishes, Antoinette (Luke’s sister, UK)
Antoinette, I think I feel a night out coming on – here in Cape Town, – when you get here…….!!!!!
Hi Clare –
Great review, great place from the look of it, the sound of it, and the taste of it, I feel sure. This is Luke’s Papa here, wishing we were all with you and part of the show.
Small correction: the crockery was designed by Andre Diyalvane of Imiso Ceramics, who was part of the team from the word go – very talented like the whole team. (Even Luke can’t put his hand to making a pot…).
JEREMY
We are going this evening as guests and after reading your review we cant wait! Luke will be pairng his food this evening with wines from Allee Bleue.
Hi Jeremy, I’d say that Luke could make a mean pot if he tried………
WE went to Test Kitchen last night and were blown away. I would follow Luke to the ends of the earth for his flavours, textures and general magic which he infuses into his food. Just watching him in his kitchen, he is so involved with the proccess that you feel that you are nibbling on a little sliver of him each time you take a mouthful. He is a genius and i told him so, he denied it and so my comment was a genius never knows he is one!!. I have had a few mediocre to poor meals at so called good restaurants in Cape Town lately and so this was an experience on many levels.
I love the space and i especially loved his wife wafting about giving a wonderful warm family feel to the fine dining . WHat a lovely couple!!!!!!!!
I am not going to go into all the various dishes we ate but suffice to say from the amuse bouche to the fantastic coffee it was perfection for the senses.
Went last night. Absolutely blown away. Best eating experience anywhere for as long as I can remember. And you can take your own wine at a corkage fee of R40. The whole vibe was completely unpretentious, and laid back. Only very very small thing. Music was turned up towards the end of the evening. This place doesn’t need any background music. Music just interferes with the culinary experience. Overall, a truly world class effort. Book now. This place is going to fly.
Hilarious Butch,
I was there too………..you’re going to have to wear a T- Shirt with “I’M BUTCH!” emblazoned on it.
My husband and I celebrated our 9th Wedding Anniversary at The Test Kitchen. What a sublime evening. The attentive service, brilliant wine and awesome food will be remembered for a long time. The scallops with tongue was our hero dish, as well as the duck. It is also briliant to see all the young chefs in action in what seems to be a very calm kitchen. No crazy antics here. If you love good food and want to spend a great evening in a fantastically cosmopolitan environment, try and get a reservation. Be prepared to wait a few weeks to get in though.We have to say – this place is a million times better than the very pretentious La Colombe and is the epitomy of what can be achieved in South Africa, through vision and collaboration.
Hi Sam,
I am so glad you enjoyed your meal in Lukes Test Kitchen. I have had a few epic meals there too, and yes, it is such a treat to see the kitchen brigade operate with such quiet confidence. Even when Luke is under pressure he still looks relaxed.
This Saturday lunch was our 3rd visit to “The Test kitchen”
We know Luke from “La Colombe” and knows that the men can cook.
I cannot fault the food, the service nor the ambience.
The only negative is that the portions are not for the hungry ones, they are I would say too small.
One cannot get away with just a main course unless you are a bird. 2 courses are a must. I know that I could not take my 30 year old daughter and her husband there, they would be still hungry.
This Saturday I had the duck confit and I must say that I never seen such a small duck leg, but it was delicious, my wife had the pork belly and being a small eater could nearly have ended
with it, but she decided to have the desert, the poached pears
with the chocolat fondant which was good, although one would expect something different from the Test Kitchen, everybody makes chocolat fondant at dinner parties these days.
To me the cost of the dish is mainly labour (cooking) the ingredients are a small part, another 50 grms of pork belly, or a slightly bigger duck leg, with maybe a few extra new little potatoes would not break the bank.
But I suppose that they do want us to buy more than 1 course
For slightly bigger portions and equally good cooking I would rather go to the Foodbarn, but it is a little out the way.
BTW the Foodbarn winter special incl wine is really good value for money.