He has named it Racine, as it’s the French word for root. Chamonix was where he started cheffing, many years ago.
The signage for Chamonix could do with an upgrade. When you get there, and successfully ignore the restaurant sign over the closed and locked green doors facing the carpark, you’ll wend your way in through the tasting room and into the old Mon Plaisir restaurant space.
It overlooks a rushing river, and I’m sure it’ll be lovely in summer when the terrace is open.
I visited on a wintry day, with stormy rain showers and an overcast sky.
The menu is your placemat, and it’s short, boasts six starters, seven mains and four desserts.
I’d describe the food as simple bistro. The crisp calamari was superbly done – just the right amount of crisp in the batter, covering calamari so fresh it melted in the mouth. An apple, celery and walnut salad had the most delicious blue cheese, just soft enough and delivering nuggets of flavour against the bitter-sweet slivers of apple.
The miso braised beef cheek on truffled pomme puree was about the nicest dish my partner has eaten all year. All umami, deep flavours and comforting textures. Perfect, washed down with a glass of Chamonix Rouge.
Maryke said it was fast becoming a signature dish
My aubergine and ricotta filled pasta delivered in spades, the marjoram burnt butter adding that unexpected twist.
Racine is worth the drive for Sunday lunch. I’ll make it my business to visit again soon, very soon.
Make sure you book in advance, because word is going to get out about this gem.
Starters R61-71. Mains R85-165. desserts R55-68.
021 876 2393